To image on the fresco print onto a transfer film (see transfer film FAQ) Recipe for 1 square foot of Fresco:
1 cup of Whiting agent (marble dust, calcium carbonate or pulverized limestone) 1 cup of prepared/cooked RSG or Gelatin
How to make 1 cup of cooked RSG/Gelatin
2 Tablespoons RSG or Gelatin Begin with 1/2 cup tap water Add 1/2 cup very hot (simmering) water Cook over low heat (less than 145 degrees)
Hydrate the RSG or Gelatin granules by sprinkling over the tap water it will make applesauce looking mix in a few minutes.Add the hot water and keep the temperature below 145 degrees, hold until the mixture is clear golden color.
Gradually stir in the marble dust, calcium carbonate or pulverized limestone
The larger the batch or multiples of square feet you are doing the more you can scant the marble dust, calcium carbonate or pulverized limestone.
No matter the size of the batch I think the fresco mix works well when it is as thick as heavy cream or buttermilk. So I adjust according to feel.
I do not scant the RSG / Gelatin that ratio is constant. 2 tablespoons per 1 cup of water. **************************************************************** Transfers to wood: Recipe is the same just omit the whiting agent **************************************************************** The Process: You will need plywood, duct tape, the recipe mixed, and an inkjet print on transfer film.
Using duct tape carefully tape around the edges of your board sealing the edges and making a well out of the surface of your board. Set your board down on a level surface.
Pour the prepared fresco/gelatin mix onto the well and being careful to keep it thin, even & level
Wait until the gelatin/rsg has set up and feels firm to a finger test.
When the surface of the board is stiff like a bowl of Jello, then peel away the duct tape. You should have a thin layer of gelatin like surface on the board.
Next lay your printed inkjet image onto the surface of the gelatin layer. The printed side will need to be down on the surface of the gelatin. The printed image will transfer quickly.
Carefully remove the transfer film by lifting it up from one corner. Your image will be left on the surface of the gelatin.
Let dry, depending on your climate and the thickness of the gelatin pour this could take several days to dry, soaking into the wood.
When the fresco is solidly dry, sand and paint the edges. Sealing the edges where the fresco meets the plywood seems to prevent most edge curl failures. Vinyl spackling compound works well. Any heavy bodied paint or gesso will also seal the edges.
When the edges are finished I then surface the pieces with clear acrylic spray like Krylon Crystal Clear and/or cold wax medium, brand names are Dorland's, Renaissance & Gamblin, all similar to shoe polish. ***The acrylic must be applied before the wax.
**************************************************************** RSG= Rabbit Skin Glue available at most art supply stores Gelatin= Knox is a brand name and sold in the grocery store and / commercial food suppliers
Commercial Gelatin Supply I purchase non food grade gelatin from: Gelatin Innovations (Vyse) , 5024 Rose Street, Schiller Park IL 60176 800-442-8263 http://www.gelatininnovations.com sales@gelatininnovations.com http://www.ballisticgelatin.net 300Bloom Type A Gelatin = available (my source is) **************************************************************** Whiting Agent: For fresco primarily is Limestone in various grinds. Marble dust being the smoothest, whitest, and easiest to use. Other forms of limestone are more coarse.
Marble Dust = Smoothest, Fredrix is a brand name & available at most art supply stores as"Fredrix Powdered Marble Dust" Marble dust is Calcium Carbonate finely ground
Marking Lime: Cheap if you can find it and perfect to use, not quite as white as the marble dust. Available from (some commercial) landscape supplies and used to mark lines for ball fields.
Pulverized Limestone: Almost too coarse but easy to find at lawn supply stores and hardware stores. **************************************************************** Substrates: Size does matter over 24” square, it is difficult to control the results: things can go very wrong I find the best substrates for the fresco are new smooth plywood 1/2 inch or thicker. Interior grade/furniture grade. I have found Lowes is a supplier of Aspen plywood that is affordable. Birch is a standard and gorgeous but also more expensive. If you are adventurous and willing to experiment use scrap wood, recycled wood. Things will happen to these surfaces and you can not predict the outcome. **************************************************************** Additives: optional and use with caution I do not add any bonding agents though you might wish to try this when experimenting with recycled materials. Such things as liquid adhesives like, Concrete Bonding Agents by Sakrete, inkAID adhesive by inkAID. Caution must be used with these materials as they can create a mix that is gorgeous but could possible curl away from your substrate or just pop off your substrate. I do not use these and stick to better grade of absorbent substrate.
